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    <title>green-lawn-care-and-landscape-inc</title>
    <link>https://www.greenlawncareinc.com</link>
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      <title>How to Fix a Sprinkler Head</title>
      <link>https://www.greenlawncareinc.com/blog/how-to-fix-a-sprinkler-head</link>
      <description>Quick guide to repairing sprinkler heads. Fix leaks, low pressure, and broken heads with simple tools in under 30 minutes.</description>
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           To fix a sprinkler head, turn off the water, unscrew the damaged head from the riser, and thread on a matching replacement. Most repairs take under 30 minutes with basic tools. If the head is leaking at the base, cracked from a lawn mower, or sunk below grade, you will need to dig out the surrounding soil first before you can get to it.
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           We get calls about sprinkler heads constantly in Boise, especially in spring when systems get turned on for the first time after winter and the freeze damage shows up. A lot of these repairs homeowners can handle themselves. Some of them need a professional. This guide walks you through the whole thing so you know which situation you are dealing with before you start digging.
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           Tools and Supplies You Will Need Before You Start
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           Before anything else, make sure you have what you need sitting next to you. Nothing worse than getting the head out and realizing you are missing something and now you have an open hole in the yard and water that needs to stay off until you get back from the hardware store.
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           Tools
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            Flathead screwdriver
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            Small hand trowel or spade for digging around the head
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            Adjustable wrench or pliers, wrap the jaws in a cloth so you do not scratch the fittings
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            Rotor key or sprinkler adjustment tool, most replacement heads come with one in the package
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            Bucket or old towel for the water that comes out when you pull the head
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           Supplies
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            Replacement sprinkler head
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            Teflon tape, also called plumber's tape, for the threads
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            Replacement riser if the one in the ground is cracked or stripped
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           One thing worth saying about the replacement head. Try to match the brand and model of what is already in the ground. Bring the old head to the hardware store or take a photo of the label before you go. Mismatched heads, ones with different precipitation rates or arc sizes than the surrounding heads on the same zone, create dry spots in some areas and overwatered muddy patches in others. We see this in Boise yards all the time when homeowners grab whatever is on the shelf without checking. Rainbird, Hunter and Orbit are the most common brands in Ada County irrigation systems and parts are easy to find at most Boise hardware stores.
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           Step 1 — Figure Out What Is Actually Wrong
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           Before you grab any tools, take a few minutes to actually watch the zone run. Turn the system on, let the zone with the problem head run for a couple minutes and just watch what is happening. The fix depends entirely on what the head is doing and they are not all the same problem.
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           Head not popping up
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           Most common one we see in Boise yards. Either dirt and debris have packed around the head and are stopping it from extending, the spring mechanism inside has worn out, the head has sunk below grade from soil settling or foot traffic, or there is a water pressure issue on that zone. If you push down on the top of the head while the system is running and it pops back up when you let go, the spring is probably fine and it is a debris or height issue. If it barely moves, the head likely needs replacing.
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           Head leaking or spraying at the base
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           Usually means a cracked housing, a worn seal or diaphragm inside the head, or a loose connection at the riser. Cracked housings in Boise are almost always freeze damage from a system that did not get properly winterized before the first hard frost. If you see a crack running up the side of the housing, the head needs to come out and get replaced. No amount of adjusting fixes a cracked body.
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           Head spraying in the wrong direction
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           The head has rotated from its original position, the arc adjustment has drifted, or on a rotary head the internal mechanism has stuck in one spot. This one is usually an adjustment fix rather than a full replacement and we cover that in the testing step.
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           Rotary head not rotating
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           Debris inside the rotor mechanism is the most common cause. Sometimes worn internal gears. Run the zone and put your finger lightly on top of the head while it is up. If you feel no movement at all and the head is not trying to turn, debris or a worn mechanism is the likely culprit. Try cleaning it first before replacing.
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           Step 2 — Turn Off the Water Before You Touch Anything
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           Sounds obvious but this step trips people up more than it should. Turning off the zone at the controller is not the same as turning off the water to the line. There is still pressure sitting in the pipe after the controller shuts the zone off and when you unscrew a head with pressure in the line you are going to get a face full of water and a muddy hole very quickly.
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           Turn off the irrigation system at the controller first. Then find the main shutoff valve for the irrigation system, usually located near the backflow preventer which on most Boise homes sits on the side of the house or near the water meter. Turn that off completely before you start digging.
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           If you cannot locate the irrigation shutoff, turning off the main water supply to the house works too. It is more disruptive but it gets the job done safely.
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           One thing people ask us about is whether you can replace a sprinkler head without turning off the water at all. Technically yes, there is a method where you cap the riser quickly and swap the head fast, but it is messy, harder than it sounds and not worth the hassle for most homeowners. Turn the water off. It takes two minutes and the repair goes much smoother.
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           Quick note about digging: Ada County soil in parts of Boise, particularly older neighborhoods on the Bench and North End, has significant clay content. Clay soil collapses back into the hole faster than sandy soil does. Use a small hand trowel and work carefully around the head rather than digging aggressively with a full size shovel. You want a clean hole you can work in, not a crater.
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           Step 3 — Remove the Damaged Sprinkler Head
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           With the water off, dig around the head until you have enough room to work. You want about six to eight inches of clearance around the body of the head so you can get your hands in there and unscrew it without fighting the soil the whole time. Do not rush the digging part. Rushing it is how irrigation lines get nicked with a trowel and a simple head replacement turns into a line repair.
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           Once you have the hole open, grab the head and try unscrewing it by hand first, turning counterclockwise. A lot of heads come off easily once the soil is cleared away from them. If it is stuck, use your wrench or pliers with the cloth wrapped around the jaws and work it loose gently. Do not crank on it hard. The riser it is threaded onto is usually PVC and it strips or cracks easier than you expect.
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           When the head comes off, look at the riser before you do anything else. Check the threads for damage, look for cracks in the PVC and check whether the riser itself is the right height for the new head you are installing. If the riser is cracked or the threads are stripped, the riser needs to come out too and get replaced before the new head goes on. A new head on a damaged riser is going to leak at the base from day one.
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           Before threading anything on, flush the line. Point the open riser away from you, turn the water on briefly to let any dirt or debris that settled in the pipe blow out, then shut it back off. Skipping this step and threading the new head straight on is how debris ends up inside the new head and causes problems the first time you run the zone.
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           Step 4 — Install the Replacement Sprinkler Head
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           Take your Teflon tape and wrap the threads on the riser two to three times in a clockwise direction before you thread the new head on. This seals the connection and prevents leaks at the base. Do not skip the tape even if the threads look clean and undamaged.
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           Thread the new head on by hand first. Get it as snug as you can without tools, then give it a quarter turn with the wrench to seat it. That is enough. Overtightening a sprinkler head on a PVC riser is one of the more common mistakes we see and it either cracks the riser immediately or weakens it enough that it cracks the first time the system freezes. Snug plus a quarter turn, nothing more.
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           Set the height of the head before you backfill. The top of the head should sit flush with the surrounding soil grade or very slightly above it, no more than a quarter inch. Heads set too low in Boise yards get covered by grass growth within one season and stop popping up properly. You will be back digging it out again before the end of summer if you set it too deep.
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           If it is a rotary head, set the arc before you backfill too. It is much easier to make that adjustment now with the head accessible than after the hole is filled in and you are trying to reach the adjustment point with a rotor key through the grass. Most heads have the arc range and adjustment method printed on the packaging. Get it roughly set now and fine tune it during the test.
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           Backfill around the head carefully, firming the soil back in without packing it hard directly against the body of the head. You want the head to be able to move freely when it pops up, not locked in place by compacted soil pressed tight around it.
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           Step 5 — Turn the Water Back On and Test
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           Head is in, hole is backfilled, now turn the water back on and run the zone from the controller. Stand back and watch the full cycle rather than walking away. The first run after a repair is when you find out whether everything went right or whether there is something still to sort out.
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           Watch for these things specifically. Does the head pop up fully and stay up while the zone is running? Is it spraying in the right direction? On a rotary head, is it actually rotating or is it stuck in one position? Is there any leaking at the base where you just threaded it onto the riser? A small drip at the base usually means the Teflon tape seal is not quite right and the head needs to come back off and get reseated with fresh tape.
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           Adjusting the arc on a fixed spray head is done with a flathead screwdriver on the adjustment screw on top of the head while it is running. Turn it slowly and watch the spray pattern shift. Most fixed heads have a range printed on them and you want the arc covering its section of the yard without overlapping aggressively into the next head's coverage area.
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           Rotary head arc adjustment uses the rotor key that came with the head. Insert it into the adjustment socket on top while the head is up and running and turn it to widen or narrow the arc. Throw distance on a rotary head gets adjusted by turning the small screw on the nozzle face, clockwise to reduce distance and counterclockwise to increase it.
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           Walk the zone while it is running and look at the overall coverage pattern. Dry spots between heads usually mean the arc or throw distance needs widening. Soggy patches where heads overlap too much mean one or both of the heads in that area needs pulling back. Getting this right takes a couple of test cycles sometimes but it is worth doing properly rather than leaving it set up in a way that creates dry spots in a Boise yard through July and August.
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           Common Sprinkler Head Problems We See in Boise Yards
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           Not every sprinkler problem comes down to a simple head replacement. Here are the ones we get called about most often across Boise and Ada County and what is usually going on with each one.
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           Head pops up but does not rotate
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           Debris inside the rotor mechanism is almost always the cause. Pull the head out of the body, rinse it under clean water and clear anything packed into the rotor. If it still does not rotate after cleaning the internal gears are worn and the head needs replacing. Heads that sit in Ada County soil through multiple freeze-thaw cycles wear out faster than heads in milder climates.
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           Head leaks when the system is completely off
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           This one is not a head problem. A head that leaks when the system is off means the valve on that zone is not closing fully, either a worn diaphragm inside the valve or debris holding it partially open. Replacing the head does nothing for this. The valve needs to be looked at.
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           One head has much lower pressure than everything else on the zone
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           Check the filter screen inside the head first, it is a small mesh screen that sits just inside the inlet and it clogs with sediment over time. Pull the head, rinse the screen and reinstall. If pressure is still low after that the issue is likely a partial line leak underground between the valve and that head.
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           Head spraying a full circle when it should be a partial arc
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           The arc adjustment has reset to full circle, which happens sometimes after a freeze or if the head took an impact. This is an adjustment fix not a replacement. Use the rotor key or screwdriver depending on the head type and reset the arc to the correct range.
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           Head sinking below grade over time
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           Happens a lot in Boise yards where soil settles after installation or where foot traffic has compressed the area around the head. Rather than digging the whole thing out and adjusting the riser, a swing joint or riser extension can raise the head back to grade without a major repair. We use this approach a lot on established Boise properties where the landscaping around the head makes full excavation more work than it needs to be.
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           System not coming on at all after winter
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           Before assuming a head problem, check the controller battery and the backflow preventer first. A lot of spring startup calls we get in Boise turn out to be a dead controller battery or a backflow preventer that was damaged over winter rather than anything wrong with the heads themselves. Run through those first before digging anything up.
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           When to Call Green Lawn Care for Sprinkler Repair in Boise
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           Most single head replacements are something a Boise homeowner can handle on a Saturday morning with basic tools and a trip to the hardware store. But some situations are worth calling a professional for and trying to DIY them often makes the repair more expensive than it needed to be.
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            ﻿
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           Call us if you are dealing with any of these.
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           Multiple heads failing on the same zone at once is almost never a head problem. When several heads on the same zone stop working together it usually points to a valve issue, a line problem or a pressure issue somewhere upstream of the heads. Replacing the heads one by one does not fix the underlying cause and you will keep replacing them until the real problem gets addressed.
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           Wet spots in the yard that stay wet after the system has been off for a day or more mean there is a line leak underground. You are not going to find that by looking at the heads. It needs to be located and the line needs to be repaired before the leak causes more significant erosion or damage to the surrounding area.
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           Backflow preventer problems are not a DIY repair. The backflow preventer protects your home's drinking water supply from irrigation water getting back into the line and in Boise it has to be tested and certified annually by a licensed professional. If the backflow preventer was damaged over winter or is failing, that is a call to make to someone with the right certification to handle it.
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           Valve and solenoid problems, controller wiring issues, pressure regulation across multiple zones, these are all situations where the diagnosis alone requires experience and tools that most homeowners do not have sitting in the garage. Getting these wrong the first time means digging up more of the yard than necessary.
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           Older irrigation systems in established Boise neighborhoods, North End, Bench, older parts of Southeast Boise, often have parts that are no longer in production. Matching heads and fittings on a system installed twenty or thirty years ago is something we deal with regularly and knowing what substitutes work and what does not comes from doing it across a lot of Boise properties over the years.
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           We do spring startups, repairs and fall winterizations across Boise, Meridian, Eagle, Garden City, Nampa and the surrounding Treasure Valley. If the problem is bigger than a single head or you are not sure what you are dealing with, call us at (208) 376-4967 and we will come out and take a look. Free estimate, no obligation.
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           Sprinkler Head Questions We Hear All the Time
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           Green Lawn Care Handles Sprinkler Repair Across Boise and the Treasure Valley
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           Single head replacement, full system startup, line repairs, fall winterization. We cover all of it across Boise, Meridian, Eagle, Garden City, Nampa, McCall and the surrounding Treasure Valley. Been doing it here for over 25 years and we know what Boise irrigation systems look like and what goes wrong with them season to season.
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            Free estimate on any sprinkler repair. Call
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            (208) 376-4967
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            Monday through Friday 8am to 5pm or
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            request a quote online
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           . We will come out, take a look and tell you exactly what is going on before we touch anything.
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